This is Not a Croquette: How Japan Changed French Food

You say croquette, Japan says korokke. Our Japanese author looks at how staples of French cooking changed to suit her country’s palette.

By Himari Semans

His name was Louis Beguex.

It was 1887 in Kobe, Japan at the Oriental Hotel, a hotel built to accommodate foreigners.

As they say in hospitality, the guest is king. The kings at the Oriental were hungry — –not for Japanese cuisine, but fine French dining.

Not that they had to beg for French meal options. Since 1873, the Japanese government had made it an obligation to serve foreign dignitaries French cuisine because Naval officers Matthew C. Perry and Yevfimiy Putyatin gave Japanese food bad reviews during official visits.

Apparently, the way to a man’s heart was really through his stomach — –as long as it was French food going down his pipes.